Monday, December 29, 2008

Operation Denim


Photo: Serfontaine at shopkitson.com

This is a serious post because finding good jeans is serious business.

I am currently smitten with my J Brand Blue Label Scarlett bootlegs in ink. They are made for the body of a woman, not a tween. The dark ink color looks clean and elegant. And the length is just right for my favorite flat boots. Those are my jeans. I can’t tell you what your perfect pair of jeans are, because they’re yours. What I can tell you is how to shop for your perfect pair.

Shopping for jeans is part art, part science, and part endurance athletic event. The first thing you’ll need is to power up with a small amount of some high energy food, naturally a bit of chocolate makes sense here (does it ever not?). Then you will need to staff up your team with two friends – they should love you and be honest people who will tell you if a jean doesn’t make the most of what you got. If said friends have already seen you in various states of undress, even better.

Head for the nearest upscale department store, and bring a simple top that looks great with jeans (such as American Apparel’s cap sleeve tee) and shoes with the heel height you plan to wear with the denim. The advantages of going to a department store are numerous – they’ll have a big selection that’s neatly organized, people to help you, and maybe a sale to boot. They will not care how many pairs you try on. And that’s good because you’re gonna try on like 20-30.

So here’s how it works. You and Team Jean grab several pairs in the size you think you are, plus one size up and one size down. Do this for lots of brands, because you don’t know which one will love your body most. Don’t over-think this, just pile what looks good onto your arm until it feels like it’s going to fall off. Of course, don’t take styles into the dressing room that you know you don’t want…for example pre-ripped/acid wash/zippers everywhere.

Next, just go. Get into the zone. Make quick, gut decisions. Like this pair? Put them in the maybe pile. Don’t like that pair? Put them in the no pile. One friend stays with you in the room to keep piles organized and confirm or advise on decisions. The other friend is the store employee who works just for you and is available every second to get new sizes and styles. Your team will find a rhythm.

At some point during this marathon, when you feel like the underdog lightweight in the 15th round, your despair will turn to hope. You will find jeans that suddenly make you feel like…yes, well, like a rock star. You’ll start doing that thing with your lips you do when you look in the mirror and see H-O-T. You’ll get a quivery feeling in your stomach that says “these are the ones.”

Those go in the yes pile, and hopefully the store hasn’t closed before you’ve found them. Trust me…they are there.

You may need to get them hemmed; any good department store will have a tailor on site to take your measurements. It’ll cost you maybe $10 extra but you must get them the right length.

If after wearing The Ones you know you are meant to be together for a long time, go ahead and buy another pair. Jeans are the foundation of the American wardrobe and the all-purpose uniform. You will reach for them again and again and it’ll be nice to always have a clean pair.

Tuesday, December 23, 2008

Dreaming of Summer

Remember when it's so hot that you have to go to the movies just for the AC?


Going to the Movies for the AC by The Fashion Director

Sunday, December 21, 2008

Meeting the Girls for Tea

If I lived in London, and had long strawberry blonde hair, this is what I would wear to meet the girls for tea.


Meeting the Girls for Tea by The Fashion Director

Saturday, December 20, 2008

A Fine Winter Coat


Photos: Paul Smith coat

Well, we are in the middle of winter and unless you are reading this on your iPhone poolside (damn you), then no matter what fabulous outfit you put on, it gets topped with a coat. Which means that although you are stunning in your favorite jeans (the ones that make your butt look like you do 100 squats every morning) and your trusty cashmere sweater (not tight, just fitted in all the right places), the fashion face you present on the street is…your coat.

A nice winter coat is a critical investment. For those who think they can eek through the cold months in a light fall jacket, ski parka, or that thing in the back of the closet that belonged to Frances McDormand in Fargo, I have news for you: it’s time to outfit yourself with a proper winter coat. You need something that will take you from happy hour to midnight mass (er, but not directly).

You are looking for a longish (knees to mid-calf) coat in a natural and durable fabric with a good warmth-to-weight ratio, such as a fine wool or cashmere. You’ll want to spend your money on quality construction and a classic style to last you several years. As always, pay attention to fit and tailoring and make sure you can wear layers underneath without looking bulky. Black, navy, charcoal, and camel are all easy and classic choices, but don’t be afraid to get something less conventional as long as it works with your wardrobe. If you buy a color, just make sure your accessories don’t compete with the coat – keep things simple to let the coat shine. Try to get something that will work well on top of both evening (New Years Eve) and day looks (Sunday at the Met). This will likely mean dressing up your day look a bit, and there is nothing wrong with that, especially in the more formal season of winter.

A good place to shop for a winter coat are the upscale department stores – Nordstrom, Bloomingdales, Saks, Barneys, Henri Bendel, etc. If you are in the New York City area, definitely visit Century 21. These stores usually have a wide selection, good sales, and an excellent return policy should you need it. I like to wait until about mid-winter for the sales in order to make my hard-earned dollars go farther and get something not just correct but truly special.

Final advice: get something sexy! Just because it is a winter coat doesn’t mean it can’t leave a trail of melted snow behind you.

Thursday, December 18, 2008

Christmas in Paris

Somewhere on a petite rue in Paris a beautiful woman with long hair is walking to meet her lover for des huitres et une bouteille de vin. The air is cold and Noël is coming soon. She carries a box of macarons from Pierre Hermé.


Christmas in Paris by The Fashion Director

Wednesday, December 17, 2008

A Craftsman in Paris


Photo: Atelier Jean Rousseau

How often do you come across a merchant of fine luxury goods who refuses to sell? The correct answer is nevair, bien sur. On a recent trip to Paris, my attempt to buy a watchband from specialist Atelier Jean Rousseau failed. My conversation with Monsieur went something like this:

FD: Bonjour, je cherche quelque chose pour ça [holds up old, ailing watchband].

M: Oui, let me zee what we have [pulls open drawer of lapis colored bands in various exotic leathers].

FD: Ooh la la!

M: Hmmm…we zeem to only have zis size, 12 centimetres. Eet eez too zmall. Vous require 13 centimetres.

FD: Well, since I’m here, I think I should buy the 12 centimeters one. Will it fit?

M: Non. Eet eez bettair for you to ordair custom 13 centimetres.

FD: Well surely it can’t be that much of a difference [hopeful].

M: Let me show you, Madame [authoritatively attaches band to watch and wiggles back and forth]. Zee? It is looze and will wair and tair ver queekly.

FD: So you don’t want me to buy it?

M: Non. I prayfair you ordair. Eet eez correct. It zatisfies me bettair.

I may have been frustrated, but instead I was delighted that Monsieur’s dedication to his craft trumped making a sale. He is a rare breed and I have the utmost respect and admiration for him. I wish everything I owned were made with that much care. I plan to ordair my custom 13 centimetres.

Tuesday, December 16, 2008

The Boyfriend Cardigan

IN A STATION OF THE METRO
The apparition of these faces in the crowd;
Petals on a wet black bough.

I was reminded of Ezra Pound’s famous haiku while walking through New York City’s crowded streets one gray, dreary day in October. The same sight kept popping up, surprising and delighting me each time with its freshness: a beautiful girl in something like black leggings, ballet flats, a fabulous slouchy bag and…without which the look isn’t possible…a soft boyfriend cardigan showing just enough shape to make an admirer’s gaze linger. Hair in a messy ponytail with a simple, bright lip. Very French, non? The grownup ballerina! So casual, comfortable, chic. Perfect for walking for miles. Just make sure the sweater covers your bum.

The boyfriend cardigan is hardly boyish at all. In fact for some of you dear readers it is a girlfriend cardigan. They are easy to find - inspired, I got my teal one that very day from Banana Republic. You can spend a lot or a little. But wouldn’t you rather have a deep love affair with cashmere than a meaningless fling with acrylic?


Photo: Modern Amusement at www.Tobi.com

Barbie's Party

Haute Couture Barbie just rang and invited me to her party this Saturday. What, oh what, should I wear? I MUST look better than her...her with that impossible figure...


What to Wear to Barbie's Party? by The Fashion Director